As I walk through the streets of Oslo, I gradually come to realise, as I’ve done so many times before, that this town (am I the only one thinking this town here?) is a dirty old place, very much resembling a traveling carnival, with a distinct gypsy quality about it. There are temporary installations everywhere, made of plastic or aluminium (you Americans really need to get that word right some time soon), construction work or street repairs going on all over the place, leaving the impression of something very cheap. Very… temporary (although I’m quite sure the intention is contemporary).
If you ever visit Oslo, you’ll probably think that you’ve entered an old west gold rush settlement of sorts, not a country’s capital. I think that’s the thing with us Norwegians, really. No sense of aesthetics at all. Certainly, there are fancy boutiques, contrary to popular belief, adding to the vulgar sides of capitalism, not, as some would argue, the city’s beautification.
Just recently we got ourselves a new opera house (the above photograph). Actually, it’s rather nice, don’t you think? But why oh why did they have to build a “paraphrase” over the Sydney opera? As you will see, its shape is something different altogether. The idea, on the other hand; sharp angles, seafront, white marble… Where on earth, you may ask, did they pick up that? One can but wonder.
Apart from that, it’s nothing less of a beauty, truly a stunning piece of architecture, and a lot more monumental than you might think, by looking at the picture, soon to be accompanied by museums, libraries and a whole new business district, would you believe, dubbed the bar code, based on the skyline it leaves against the city ceiling – once built.
A balloon in front of the Oslo city hall. Photographer: Jarle Petterson
Passing the city hall the other day, I noticed something going on. A bicycle race or something, sporting sales stalls and the usual humdrum of such events, including a huge balloon, which truthfully didn’t really surprise at all. That’s just the kind of thing you’d expect to find in these parts – on any given day. Certainly, I’d expect something like that in a Tyrolian hullaballoo after ski village, but again: In a country’s capital? Think not. But there you have it: The utter lack of aesthetics, manifesting itself in phenomena to be expected by a fair ground or some such place. I have to confess to repeatedly saying “What the…” on my occasional stroles through central Oslo. Always have. This is a permanent Oslo state of things, see, perhaps even a state of mind.
Kiss the frog. Photographer: Ti.mo/Flickr (licenced under creative commons)
Three years ago, an enourmous inflatable, frog-like pavillion, named “Kiss the frog” was erected in the middle of the Tullinløkka square, as a temporary installation housing an exhibition in relation with the 100th anniversary of the country’s independence from Sweden. It still stands, and these are the sad remains:
Kiss the frog. Photographer: Jarle Petterson
The thing about Tullinløkka, a square squeezed in between the National Gallery and the Historical Museum, is that its use has been debated for about a hundred years. Meanwhile, it has served as a parking lot for decades, while the politicians decide. You have to admit that a 100-year decision proces is impressive, but not the least unique in a Norwegian context. We just don’t jump to conclusions around here, you know. That’s yet a Norwegian trait for you.
A thin line between love and hate?
In spite of its obvious shortcomings, I actually love Oslo, which I think I made clear in an article over at iNorden (please note: in Norwegian). After all, who could possibly love perfection. There has to be flaws, and rest assured: Oslo’s got them aplenty.
In conclusion: Love? Certainly! Hate? Pas de tout! But I do like the occasional bouts of criticism.