After we moved out to the suburbs some three and a half years ago I barely frequent the city streets any more. I remember how strange it sounded, talking to people out here then, who told us they rarely visited town, mostly because everything they needed is found in these parts anyway. But it [...]]]>

After we moved out to the suburbs some three and a half years ago I barely frequent the city streets any more. I remember how strange it sounded, talking to people out here then, who told us they rarely visited town, mostly because everything they needed is found in these parts anyway. But it can’t be helped: I do miss Oslo, even though we live in what is considered part of “Greater Oslo”. Yes, being a native Bergener I still consider Oslo my Heimat, as it were.

But I can’t help reliving that feeling I had, just a few years upon leaving Bergen 21 years ago; that everything had changed each time I revisited, which very much is the case with Oslo, too. For instance I’ve noticed over the last couple of years, that every Christmas a trashy “Christmas market” resurfaces on the city hall square facing the sea, made up by horrendous, terrible white tents resembling a travelling circus of sorts. Does look good at night though:

The Christmas market in front of the Oslo city hall. Mobile photo: Jarle Petterson

Walking past, in the direction of the older parts of Oslo, the original Christiania, I came across the new café depicted on top (alas a mobile photo, too); Café Skansen, which must’ve opened some time this year, by the look of the mural inscription. Seems awfully cosy, though, and very much in line with the area’s original architecture, which is always a plus.

But the city’s changing, almost on a daily basis, which is quite frustrating for those of us who rush to and fro meetings only once in a while. Take the leading shopping street, for insance, through which I passed the other day. For one, there were new shops I’d never heard of everywhere. Even three adjoining businesses, of some significance, one way or the other, had been replaced: The Harlekin restaurant, in which I once had the mother of all hang-overs nursed by the fireplace, replaced by a number of shops. Next to it, a Bose concept shop was in place of the Bang & Olufsen store. Brought up with B&O impressions, both audio- and video-wise, I’m still quite fond of the brand, not to mention the designs, even though I’m no longer prone to buy their goods. Still, seeing it gone feels a little odd. Next to it, the little Strikkolf shop, in which someone I used to know once worked… Poof! All gone  — in a neighbourhood I actually visit on a monthly basis.

Change is good, I suppose, but please: Give a poor man time to take it all in, will you?

If you’re in the area, this could be your last chance to see Oslo’s most prominent landmark, the Holmenkollen ski jump, to be completely torn down within 16 October. The demolition takes place in order to make way for a total reconstruction, to be completed by next year’s December, at the price of NOK [...]]]>

If you’re in the area, this could be your last chance to see Oslo’s most prominent landmark, the Holmenkollen ski jump, to be completely torn down within 16 October. The demolition takes place in order to make way for a total reconstruction, to be completed by next year’s December, at the price of NOK 900 million, in good time for the 2010 world championship trials.

I won’t go into further details, except for quoting Wikipedia’s intro on the Holmenkollen facility:

The Holmenkollen ski jump, located in Holmenkollen, Oslo, Norway, is host to the world’s second oldest ski jump competition still in existence (the oldest being hosted by a small, local club named Medicinernes Skiklub Svartor in nearby Seterkollen).

Since then the capacity of the stands have been increased to over 50,000 people and the jump has been extended 18 times, last time in 1982. Today’s tower extends 60 meters above ground, and 417 metres above sea level. The current record of 136 meters was achieved by Tommy Ingebrigtsen of Norway on January 25, 2006.

Crown Prince Olav participated in 1922 and 1923. Every year, more than a million tourists visit the ski arena. The tower offers a panoramic view of Oslo and the Oslofjord.

Here’s a little novelty for you: The Holmenkollen ski jump filmed from an RC plane:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbbXvTcLRro

I found a pamphlet from a local real estate agent in the mailbox yesterday, sporting a “Bauhaus” property for sale in the immediate vicinity, which instantly upset me so much that I decided it had to be blogged. Take another look at the picture, if you please. Does this even remotely resemble Bauhaus, you [...]]]>

I found a pamphlet from a local real estate agent in the mailbox yesterday, sporting a “Bauhaus” property for sale in the immediate vicinity, which instantly upset me so much that I decided it had to be blogged. Take another look at the picture, if you please. Does this even remotely resemble Bauhaus, you think? Granted, the angles are sharp (which, by the way is no prerequisite for Bauhaus), and the house is most definitely very square, flat roof and all, with the occasional extremity, but it ends there.

Of course, I knew that real estate agents lack a hint of… je ne sais quoi… history and cultural understanding, but I’m more than just a little flabbergasted to learn that it even applies to architecture. I’m sure this would cause Walter Gropius to spin in his grave. I know I would, were I only dead, seeing as I’ve been passionate about Bauhaus for decades.

If you’re a real estate agent, please read this (which I expect is common knowledge for the rest of you).

As I walk through the streets of Oslo, I gradually come to realise, as I’ve done so many times before, that this town (am I the only one thinking this town here?) is a dirty old place, very much resembling a traveling carnival, with a distinct gypsy quality about it. There are temporary [...]]]>

As I walk through the streets of Oslo, I gradually come to realise, as I’ve done so many times before, that this town (am I the only one thinking this town here?) is a dirty old place, very much resembling a traveling carnival, with a distinct gypsy quality about it. There are temporary installations everywhere, made of plastic or aluminium (you Americans really need to get that word right some time soon), construction work or street repairs going on all over the place, leaving the impression of something very cheap. Very… temporary (although I’m quite sure the intention is contemporary).

If you ever visit Oslo, you’ll probably think that you’ve entered an old west gold rush settlement of sorts, not a country’s capital. I think that’s the thing with us Norwegians, really. No sense of aesthetics at all. Certainly, there are fancy boutiques, contrary to popular belief, adding to the vulgar sides of capitalism, not, as some would argue, the city’s beautification.

Just recently we got ourselves a new opera house (the above photograph). Actually, it’s rather nice, don’t you think? But why oh why did they have to build a “paraphrase” over the Sydney opera? As you will see, its shape is something different altogether. The idea, on the other hand; sharp angles, seafront, white marble… Where on earth, you may ask, did they pick up that? One can but wonder.

Apart from that, it’s nothing less of a beauty, truly a stunning piece of architecture, and a lot more monumental than you might think, by looking at the picture, soon to be accompanied by museums, libraries and a whole new business district, would you believe, dubbed the bar code, based on the skyline it leaves against the city ceiling – once built.

A balloon in front of the Oslo city hall. Photographer: Jarle Petterson

Passing the city hall the other day, I noticed something going on. A bicycle race or something, sporting sales stalls and the usual humdrum of such events, including a huge balloon, which truthfully didn’t really surprise at all. That’s just the kind of thing you’d expect to find in these parts – on any given day. Certainly, I’d expect something like that in a Tyrolian hullaballoo after ski village, but again: In a country’s capital? Think not. But there you have it: The utter lack of aesthetics, manifesting itself in phenomena to be expected by a fair ground or some such place. I have to confess to repeatedly saying “What the…” on my occasional stroles through central Oslo. Always have. This is a permanent Oslo state of things, see, perhaps even a state of mind.

Kiss the frog. Photographer: Ti.mo/Flickr (licenced under creative commons)

Three years ago, an enourmous inflatable, frog-like pavillion, named “Kiss the frog” was erected in the middle of the Tullinløkka square, as a temporary installation housing an exhibition in relation with the 100th anniversary of the country’s independence from Sweden. It still stands, and these are the sad remains:

Kiss the frog. Photographer: Jarle Petterson

The thing about Tullinløkka, a square squeezed in between the National Gallery and the Historical Museum, is that its use has been debated for about a hundred years. Meanwhile, it has served as a parking lot for decades, while the politicians decide. You have to admit that a 100-year decision proces is impressive, but not the least unique in a Norwegian context. We just don’t jump to conclusions around here, you know. That’s yet a Norwegian trait for you.

A thin line between love and hate?

In spite of its obvious shortcomings, I actually love Oslo, which I think I made clear in an article over at iNorden (please note: in Norwegian). After all, who could possibly love perfection. There has to be flaws, and rest assured: Oslo’s got them aplenty.

In conclusion: Love? Certainly! Hate? Pas de tout! But I do like the occasional bouts of criticism.